Friday, 25 May 2012

Dhalpuri


Everyone has strengths and weaknesses. For me, cooking is not typically of the former.

Nonetheless, this day I committed to an exercise in globalization, creating one of my favourite items from Guyana using Japanese ingredients and equipment.


Dhalpuri is unleavened Caribbean roti (of South Asian origin), with a stuffing of ground yellow split peas along with cumin, pepper and garlic. Lacking a mill and tava, I sufficed with a food processor and a frying pan over a stove. It raises interesting reflections on the geography of cuisine: crowded and compartmentalized Tokyo leaves little room for the great communal cooking devices found in the kitchens and yards of Guyana's houses - the cassava processing apparatus of interior households alone would occupy more space than the average inhabitant of Tokyo lives in. Conversely, the tiny microwaves or toaster ovens here might quite amuse a Guyanese!

The process took two hours and made one heck of a mess, but from the outcome rose the taste of some of the most impressive memories I hold.


With my most honoured friend in Tokyo, I toasted Guyana over this product and dedicated this meal to my students at the Bina Hill Institute in the summer of 2010. May success, good fortune and the best of fulfilments be currently finding the journeys of each and every one of you.

Sunday, 13 May 2012

Conflict and Peacebuilding in East Timor

 For those interested in the kinds of things I have been doing at the UN University...
 

How well has the causality of the conflict in East Timor been reflected in its UN peacebuilding experience?
Ai Chaobang (a.k.a. John Ashton), 11 February 2012
Introduction
1 – 1975-1999: The Causes of Conflict in East Timor
2 – 1999-2012: Peacebuilding
a) Security
b) Governance
c) Justice
Conclusion


Introduction
In December 1975, the world turned its back on East Timor. Twenty-four-years of Indonesian occupation visited brutality of demonic proportions upon its people: one of the worst genocides of the late twentieth century, in which over two hundred thousand Timorese, a third of the population, were killed.1 It was answered, extremely belatedly, with the largest, furthest reaching and most committed international response in the history of United Nations (UN) peacebuilding.

The UN is now thirteen years into its intervention in East Timor, or in what, to the intervention's credit, became in 2002 the independent state of Timor-Leste. However, despite considerable success against astonishing odds, peacebuilding in East Timor has not been an unmitigated success. Today the outlook for Timor-Leste remains uncertain, its stability and prospects still appearing to hinge on the continued UN presence.

This analysis has two parts. In the first I explore the background to the East Timor conflict, in search of the causes of its traumatic violence in both the original conflict and the persisting unrest which still brings strife to its pursuit of peace. In the second I consider the UN peacebuilding exercise in depth, and ask whether it has sufficiently taken those roots of conflict into account. Through this I advance that the experience in East Timor offers lessons by which the UN might improve its peacebuilding exercises in future; but that the obstacles have been less due to faults in the UN organization, and more the responsibility of its member states and the international paradigm they yet uphold. For indeed, it was this paradigm, of states which choose to act on the world only in terms of their own "national interest" calculations, and which struggle to see through value frameworks other than their own, that was ultimately responsible for East Timor's nightmares; and this choice of paradigm which, although the UN's foundational principles reject it, made East Timor all the more challenging to raise from the wreckage to which the very same choices reduced it.

(Click below for the rest of the paper.)

Wednesday, 25 April 2012

Takao and Jinba

A mid-spring day with a forecast of 80% chance of continuous rain is the perfect occasion for hiking in the mountains. In this case, the mountains of the Takao-Jinba Prefectural National Park on the western outskirts of Tokyo.


Takao-san is one of the most popular hiking destinations here, with easy access and multiple routes to the top. From the summit a ridge goes up and down through forests, over streams, and in and out of generally pleasant surroundings with such things as monkeys, wild boar, and colourful wildflowers. Cooler than the lowlands, a lot of late-blooming sakura still flourished, while most of those flowers have already shed their petals in the city below, giving way to leaves.

The ridge connects Takao with the Shiro and Kagenobu mountain peaks, and ultimately Mount Jinba, the highest of the four at 857 metres in altitude. On a clear day some of these offer panoramic views as far as central Tokyo to the east, and Mount Fuji to the southwest. Smothered in cloud and rain as it was on this occasion, we got an alternative view of haunted forests and white walls closing in all around, which in fact was no less special. Click below for photos.

Wednesday, 11 April 2012

Hanami

For a few weeks every spring, the pinks and whites of sakura (cherry blossoms) bloom across Japan. These hold ancient and enduring cultural significance for people in this country, who over the last few days have started gathering in astronomical numbers to partake in hanami (flower-viewing).

These photos were taken in Kitanomaru and Yoyogi Park, in places saturated with impassable oceans of people.







Monday, 19 March 2012

Earthquakes are Political


One year ago, one of the most violent earthquakes ever recorded brought devastation to Japan's Tōhoku region. In the Triple Disaster of earthquake, tsunami and meltdown at the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power facility, over 15,000 people were killed, thousands more were left missing, and vast sections of infrastructure along the coastal prefectures were reduced to wreckage, their debris-strewn landscapes still greeting those who travel to the region today.

There appear two starkly contrasting sides to how Japan has dealt with the challenges encumbering it since March 2011. Most visibly we see an endurance and stoicism lauded worldwide: a brave population pulling together and doing what has to be done, determined and disciplined, inspiring respect in foreigners who tend then to question if their own countries could handle a similar tragedy with anything approaching Japanese dignity.

On the other side the scene is far more sordid. Spectacular mismanagement and ineffectiveness from the likes of TEPCO and the central government, and an associated collapse in trust; persisting confusion over radiation safety in the Fukushima plant's exclusion zones; miserable tribulations for residents not sure if their food is safe, if their kids should play outside at school, or whether to evacuate altogether; and beneath it all, the undercurrent of powerful decisions made on the basis of economic greed or political expediency – such as does this country disservice as much as it does to any other.

This was less a natural disaster and more a human one. It is not for the Earth to lie still at our request, but for us to accommodate the movements it has seen fit to undertake since long before we existed – which of course is quite feasible for us to do. But this requires responsibility on the part of national and prefectural governments and those who run the economic infrastructure: and as such, the crisis' furthest reaching implications are deeply socio-political.

On those terms, the shockwaves spread far wider than those of the earthquake itself, perhaps most tellingly with the collapse of confidence in nuclear energy as far away as Europe. It was not just a question of how to respond to the calamity; it was, and is, a question of who we are and how we organize our societies.

Let's think about the significance of what we might be dealing with here. There are worsening trends on the list of countries experiencing a collapse of trust in political leadership – especially those that consider themselves 'democratic' – and Japan today finds itself ever closer to the wrong end of that list. This is not necessarily good news. An erosion of faith in the political classes, left unchecked, can all too easily slide into an erosion of faith in a society's very model of politics.

Sometimes this is necessary. Indeed, with all arrangements of power that encourage selfishness and greed, it must happen sooner or later. But too often – as Egypt and Libya might tell us – a constructive replacement eludes us.

Now we need not remind ourselves that 'democracy' – for whatever its goods and ills – is scarcely a few decades old in Japan. Who remembers what it replaced?

Despite the catalogue of political grotesquenesses the Japanese have had to contend with under this model – corrupt party politicians, environmental ruination, the mass alienation of youth, and so on – they have nonetheless, thus far, appeared to maintain their confidence in the actual political system. So remarkable were its professed successes at first that 'democracy' – something Japan found its way to more out of national trauma than a coherent journey of self-discovery – has become very much taken for granted here, in principle if not always in practical integrity.

But how long can it last?

Perhaps the question sounds nonsensical. Surely it is preposterous to think that March 2011 might seriously project Japan towards another transformation, or revolution, in an 1868 or 1945 sense? Indeed, indeed – but that should not excuse us from making some serious reflections. The Triple Disaster in Tōhoku might be far from such a catalyst, but other events on the radar might warrant a lot more concern in this regard.

The last time there was an earthquake of similar magnitude in the Tokyo area, this happened:

That was 1923, and one cannot go far in Tokyo these days without catching the murmurs that, statistically, another big earthquake in the region of the capital is "due". More disquieting are the suggestions that recent seismic disturbances in the Mount Fuji area might be connected to the mountain itself – which is, after all, an active volcano, overlooking 13 million people crowded into the hugest urban centre in the world.

Of course there is no reliable process to accurately predict such things (although that hasn't stopped the Italians from prosecuting itsseismologists for their unpardonable crime, so they would have it, offailing to do so). But one must always be prepared, and despite how far Tokyo has come since the 1920s with its 72-hour survival drills, forecasts and warning systems, regulations for earthquake-proof architecture, and so forth, what one hears about Tokyo's readiness for another big earthquake is not reassuring.

And this in the one country that's probably better prepared than any other for disasters of this magnitude. No modernity, no tools, no technology, alone sufficies: accommodating the rage of the Earth is before anything else a question of attitude of the humility to refrain from hubris, the rejection of complacency, and the responsibility, in all sectors of society, to look through long-term perspectives, identify and respond to risks, and concern ourselves with other people's prospects.

This, in turn, connotes healthy social relationships between citizens and their political leaders, as well as with one another. Bonds of trust and genuine concern, that is, that can withstand the most savage of shocks and guide all society through the challenges of recovery.

I am not confident that this is how most Japanese people I have met would describe their country's political situation. And while one can admire their patience, it would be a reckless assumption, and unreasonable expectation, to think this patience might not have its limits.

In Hokusai's The Great Wave Off Kanagawa, above, we see an image of nature's ferocity from the 1830s that has since been interpreted as a metaphor for corresponding social and political storms which were soon to sweep across Japan. Back then, it was the aggressive intrusion of foreign barbarians, whose very presence shook the country to its roots and forced it to reflect on and re-imagine its identity in the world. But these days, in the age of the global sustainability crisis, and March 2011's demonstration that not even the most modern of our societies can take our relationship with the elements for granted, the link between the turbulences of nature and society might be much more literal.

The threat of a destructive Tokyo earthquake comes at a time when Japan might well worry at its surroundings, with the volatile uncertainties of the Kim Dynasty succession in North Korea, and a socially unstable China building up its navy for confrontational maritime posturing. Generations shift, and memories fade of just how scary some alternatives to Japan's current political order can be; even as the country still has trouble admitting that subjecting and slaughtering its way across Asia was wrong, and one doesn't have to go far to see right-wing nationalists asserting themselves down the streets of Tokyo with their flags and speaker-mounted vans. At times like these, to gaze on the shops and restaurants and architecture, and wonder how such things reflect Japan's relationship with foreign ideas and influences – a spinning carousel of one moment admiration, the next contempt, and never may one guess in advance – and to consider its idiosyncratic big debates, such as how its army can or cannot be not really an army, or how the disaffected youth can care for mounting legions of elderly, is to feel that this is a country whose long journey is not yet secure in direction; which has yet to feel sure what kind of place it genuinely wants to be.

An atmosphere of temporariness, indeed; of scaffolding, of making do with something inadequate until a better way can be found – but because that search has not always gone well, they do it with patience, tolerating perhaps a bit more inadequacy than most others would.

This patience has been exhausted plenty of times in Japanese history. 'Inadequate', when it becomes too permanent, slips complacently into 'inexcusible', at which point alternatives, impossible a few minutes earlier, become inevitable. Dialectics and contradictions, opening and closing, past tradition and future vision: Japan covers the ground from extreme to extreme with about the same statisitcal frequency, indeed, as its catastrophic earthquakes.

At some point, Tokyo will have to contend with one. At another point, that may or may not be close to the first, Japan's politics will transition to another new shape. The responsibility to deal properly with the first challenge, is not so separate from that of laying the foundations for the second to produce something better, rather than worse, than what is here now.

Monday, 20 February 2012

No Morality In Prejudice - or Beneath the Schoolgrounds, It Lies Dreaming

Homophobic violence is in the news lately. Ban Ki-moon has condemned it - not exactly a UN Secretary-General's most frequent topic of conversation. Uganda proceeds to cast its sanity into the abyss with its death-penalty-for-gays law which also 'criminalises public discussion of homosexuality and would penalise an individual who knowingly rents property to a homosexual'. And bitter disputes break out as countries like Britain threaten to cut off development aid to homophobic regimes.

This last – aid and homophobia – is a horrendous ethical dilemma, which seems to encourage suffering no matter what. But that is a discussion for another time. Here I want to focus on Britain itself.

Surely prejudice in liberal, democratic, tolerant Britain should not be compared with prejudice in the states Britain once upon a time exported homophobia to? After all, it has moved on since those days, has it not? Hasn't it done away with its discriminatory laws, its classification of homosexuality as a disease, and even its preparedness to drive people who won World War II for it to suicide simply for being gay (and wait sixty years before saying sorry)?

In fact, no. It has merely pushed its prejudices behind a curtain. Still they lurk. And so long as that is the case, Britain is not nearly as safe as it thinks from the homophobic horrors of its past.

The latest row over how to approach homosexuality in sex education in religious schools highlights one of homophobia's most enduring set of strongholds in Britain: bastions which lie too low to trouble the average citizen's radar. The school playground: where an atmosphere of unrelenting bigotry is permitted to thrive, by which children, especially boys, may be bullied or ostracized at the slightest hint of appearing gay, and must assimilate into a homophobic mainstream to avoid this – even if neither they nor those who torment them have even had the chance to learn what 'gay' actually means.

This is no trivial matter. How many children are we prepared to sleepwalk into bearing those prejudices into adulthood? To bear forth hatred and bigotry they did not ask for, and never give them reason to question those attitudes in a society that cringes to offer them frank sexuality discussion?

A lack of proper sex education is at the core of the problem. Sex education is first and foremost about self-mastery: about enabling a person to develop awareness, and thus responsibility and capacity, for the full sovereignty over his or her own body that is every individual is entitled to. Unfortunately, society somehow became corrupted: came to hold this entitlement in contempt, rejected that people should be masters of themselves, and laid claim to their bodies for itself. Subjecting people; controlling people; forcing them on pain of death to fit with all manner of repressive norms and categories; and because sexuality and love are inherently the very stuff of freedom, impossible to coerce or command, these forces struck fear in the twisted hearts of society's corruptors.

These last few weeks, figures such as Baroness Warsi and former Archbishop of Canterbury George Carey have been agitating against 'militant secularization' and the decline of religion in the UK. They should pause and consider the injustices to which angry secularism is reacting in the first place: why it is a logical consequence of serious flaws in religious morality.

For all the contributions or mistakes alike of Abrahamic religions, sexuality represents the critical failure of their attempts to define an ethical plan for humanity. They – whether their god, their spiritual leaders or their followers – take one look at human sexuality, and (with courageous exceptions) for the most part have no idea what to make of it, morally speaking. For reasons and madnesses unclear, this confusion translated into cultural currents of unspeakable hatred and fear; and while plenty of upstanding Christians and Muslims have chosen kindness and tolerance instead, the effect has been to embed homophobic persecution into a thousand societies and cultures – and to let it be held as righteous.

As the Church has such a central traditional role in directing British education, it must accept its share of responsibility for obstructing the right of children to their sexual self-mastery. The tradition of discouragement and punishment of any honest discourse for children on the matter has terrible consequnces. As their own sexual development catches up to them and finds them unequipped to make sense of it, they are left wide open for society's whispering bigotries to take root instead.

And that is why the homophobia on British playgrounds is as dangerous as the homophobia in the Ugandan parliament. For it is not enough to banish prejudice from law; to prohibit it from the workplace; to memorialize those who have fallen to its cruelty. Society must rise up as a whole to establish it as evil, in any form, in any place, at every level, and cast it from its lands forever. That is, it must be not only a social, economic and legal resolution; nor even a merely political one; but a spiritual one. Every brain, every soul, must know and believe in its depths that there is no morality in prejudice.

That it persists in Britian, among schoolchildren no less, is a ticking time bomb. Laws, politics and social structures are malleable, coming and going as fast as Japanese prime ministers; but what we call ethics can resist change for centuries unless we choose to confront them – which in Britain we have not. If Britain is truly past homophobic prejudice, schools should feel no hesitation in teaching children of its perniciousness, while churches should be eagerly opening their records and discussing with their congregations why every bit of their part in the country's historical persecutions were wrong; and the very politicians who make no-more-aid threats to homophobic regimes should have nothing to do with the most diabolical and sadistic homophobic forces in the world, such as in the Vatican or Saudi Arabia. Instead, teachers dither or let the whispers of bigotry walk past into schoolbooks and playgrounds; the wrong kind of Christians are permitted to disguise discrimination as 'moral'; and the ethical bankruptcy of British foreign policy is as spectacular today as at any point in its past.

A ticking time bomb. Homophobia in Britain lurks beneath the fabric. It sleeps; it hungers; and at every sign of social fracturing, it stirs. Economic hardship; artificial strife between religions or ethnic groups; a government which feeds on the tears of society's most vulnerable; or just the basic disintegration of a public ethic of care: these are things all societies have known as the catalysts of bloodshed unimaginable. Without proper banishment, above all through proper education, how can anyone feel safe that homophobia in Britian does not merely lie dreaming, probing with its nightmare tendrils, waiting only for the opportunity to break forth on tides of popular ignorance? And when it wakes, just how much scaffolding will British institutions offer it to clamber to the terminal virulence we see in other lands?

Before the British make aid threats to other countries, or seek to revive their traditional models of morality, they should stop and do some serious reflection on their own living prejudices, and the methods by which they arrive at definitions of right and wrong. Homophobia loosed forth terror and sorrow in Britain for hundreds of years, let out from a vessel from some incomprehensible universe which the British moral authorities should never have opened. Resistance has tranquilized this creature, but it has slept only a few decades – a blip in its epochs of power – and its writhing dreams become the living nightmares of children in playgrounds and classrooms everywhere. Gove, Warsi, Carey and all you others – watch yourselves. To bid this monster awaken is a special kind of folly.

Sunday, 5 February 2012

Nikkō - Tokugawas For Sale

The encircled triple-hollyhock emblem on this shop is the mon (crest) of the Tokugawa clan, who rose to dominate Japan as shoguns from Tokugawa Ieyasu's reunification of the country in 1600, to the overthrow of the shogunate in the 1868 Meiji Restoration. Despite the great ordeals this nation went to in order to be rid of them, there was evidence in Nikkō that their power has made a comeback: not as political authority, but as lucrative commercial brand...